The PCOS Facial Hair How-To Wax Guide Estimated Time to Complete: 15 min
The Complete Guide to PCOS Facial Waxing

Facial waxing: decoded

A licensed esthetician's step-by-step for PCOS facial waxing. Your guide to how to handle coarse hair, stubborn roots and sensitive skin.

Skill level: Beginner Friendly · Time Required: 15 minutes · Tools: Wax, Warmer, Applicators, Pre and post-care · Cycle Repeat Every 3 to 5 weeks

Table of Contents

  1. 01 Before You Heat Prep your skin in four steps
  2. 02 The Face Map Discover your hair growth direction
  3. 03 Six Movements The universal technique
  4. 04 The Chin Zone One: The Densest Patch
  5. 05 The Cheeks Zone Two: The Most Delicate Area
  6. 06 The Neck Zone Three: The Under-Jaw Rule
  7. 07 Six Don'ts What not to do... ever
  8. 08 First 72 Hours Your aftercare timeline
  9. 09 The Long Game The six-month cycle
  10. 10 The Products Wax, Warmers and Tools
01 Page One Before You Heat Anything Up File: Prep

Prep or pay for skipping it.

PCOS skin is reactive and hormonally-driven hair is stubborn. The four steps below take five minutes and save you 15 percent of the discomfort.

01 Step One

Exfoliate

Exfoliate 48 hours before you wax, not any sooner. It clears the dead skin sitting on top of the hair, so the wax grips what it's supposed to and skips what it isn't.

02 Step Two

Hair Length Check

Hair must be one-eighth of an inch long, the width of a grain of rice. Any shorter and the wax cannot fully grip it. Any longer, trim with sharp scissors held flat to the skin.

03 Step Three

Cleanse

Wash with a gentle, sulfate-free cleanser. Remove every trace of makeup, SPF, and serum. Hard wax will refuse to grip greasy skin, and a slippery grip means wasted wax.

04 Step Four

Dry Completely

Pat dry with a clean towel and wait two minutes. Any residual moisture turns wax into a slip and slide. We are looking for completely dry, not damp.

02 Page Two The Cartography of Your Face Filed: Anatomy

Know which way it grows.

Hair on the chin, cheeks, and neck does not grow in the same direction. It swirls, fans, and reverses direction. Map the direction of your facial hair before you apply your first strip.

CHEEK CHEEK CHIN NECK
Figure 1.0 · Hair growth pattern

Read your follicles like a topographic map.

PCOS hair tends to grow thicker in patches: bilateral on the chin, sometimes on the cheeks, often on the jawline and upper neck. The follicles do not all behave the same way. Cheek hair points down and slightly forward toward the mouth. Chin hair fans in from the sides and can swirl in the middle. Neck hair usually grows down, but under the jaw it sometimes points up.

Before any wax goes on, run a clean finger across each zone in different directions. The direction that feels rough is against the grain. The direction that feels smooth is with the grain.

↓Cheek
Down and forward
↘Chin
Fans in from sides
↓↑Neck
Mostly down, under-jaw up
⟲Swirls
Wax in two sections
03 Page Three The Six Moves in Order Filed: Method

Six moves to apply and remove wax. That's it.

Every strip on every zone is the same six movements. Memorize them once and apply everywhere. We will tell you what is different per zone on the following pages.

01 Heat

Drip like honey (not syrup)

Warm wax on high heat until mostly melted. Reduce the heat to about 160°F until it drips off the stick in a slow ribbon.

02 Apply
AGAINST GROWTH

Apply wax WITH the grain

Much like petting an animal, you want to apply wax with the grain, or when the hair feels smooth. Spread an even layer of wax and build a small lip at the end to grip.

03 Set
10-20 SEC

Sticky touch test

Wait until the wax has cooled for about 10 seconds. If it is still sticky, do not remove and let it cool. If your strip is too thin, apply a fresh layer on top.

04 Anchor
STRETCH SKIN

Pull and stretch skin tight

Use your opposite hand to pull the skin taut. Loose skin pulls with the wax and can cause pain. Taut skin stays put while only the hair leaves.

05 Pull
PARALLEL · FAST

Keep it parallel

Grasp the lip at the end of the strip. In one smooth motion, pull off the wax strip against the grain and stay parallel to the skin. Never pull straight up or you risk bruising.

06 Press
5 SEC PRESSURE

Five seconds of pressure

After removing the wax strip, press the heel of your hand firmly on the area for five seconds. This calms the nerve response and reduces the sting.

04 Page Four Zone One · The Chin Filed: First Area
Zone One 1 2 3 SIDE PANEL · L SIDE PANEL · R CENTER · LAST 1ST 2ND 3RD 3 strips · 2 minutes
Zone One of Three

The Chin.

The chin usually has the densest patches of hair growth on a PCOS face. The follicles fan in from both sides and swirl in the middle. To combat this, wax the area in three small strips, never one large one.

  1. 01
    Map the swirlRun a fingertip across the chin in four directions. The center often has a swirl pattern where two follicle directions meet.
  2. 02
    Apply panel one, left sideHair on the side of the chin grows down and slightly inward. Spread a thumb-sized strip of wax from the corner of your mouth down toward the jaw following the growth.
  3. 03
    Pull, left to right and upLet wax cool and stretch the skin at the corner of your mouth upwards with your free hand. Grab the lip on the wax strip at the jaw and remove in one parallel motion.
  4. 04
    Repeat on the rightMirror image of the left side. Same wax strip size, same direction, same pull angle. Press five seconds after removing the strip.
  5. 05
    Center ChinThe middle of the chin can have a center swirl. Apply a narrow center strip of wax from the start of the chin down towards the bottom curve of the chin. Press your fingers below the bottom lip and stretch the skin upwards and then remove the wax strip.
  6. 06
    Inspect and Touch UpIf a few hairs remain, lay an additional strip in the opposite direction. With Crybaby Wax, you can do two passes. Tweeze any remaining hairs.
05 Page Five Zone Two · The Cheeks Filed: Second Area
Zone Two 1 2 HAIR GROWS UPPER CHEEKBONE LOWER CHEEK PAD 2 strips per side · 3 min
Zone Two of Three

The Cheeks.

Cheek skin is the most delicate of the three zones. Capillaries sit close to the surface, and pulling at the wrong angle can leave a bruise that lingers for a week. Wax it light, wax it slow.

  1. 01
    Test the wax twiceCheeks need lower-temperature wax than chin. Drop a bit on the inside of your wrist, count to three. If it stings even a little, let it cool another minute. We use I'm Sensitive Meltdown Wax here specifically.
  2. 02
    Apply the upper cheekbone stripOnly wax here if there are coarse, terminal hairs. Start an inch below your eye, never closer. Spread a small panel toward the ear, against the diagonal grain. Build the lip at the back, closer to the ear.
  3. 03
    Anchor at the bone, pull toward the noseThe cheekbone is your friend. Press your stretch hand flat against the cheekbone for taut skin. Pull the strip in one motion toward your nose, parallel to the skin. Never pull up toward the eye.
  4. 04
    Move to the lower cheekApply a second strip on the softer pad of cheek below. Same direction, against the diagonal grain. The skin here is more forgiving but more reactive, so do not press the wax down hard.
  5. 05
    Pull back toward the earHold skin taut at the corner of your mouth. Pull the lower-cheek strip parallel and back toward your ear. Press for five seconds after.
  6. 06
    Mirror the other side immediatelyDo not wait between cheeks. Cheek redness fades faster when both sides match. Repeat the process on the opposite side.
06 Page Six Zone Three · The Neck Filed: Third Area
Zone Three 1 2 3 PULL DOWN PULL UP PULL UP UNDER-JAW UPPER NECK 4 strips · 4 minutes
Zone Three of Three

The Neck.

The neck is the trickiest zone because the hair changes direction. Most of the neck grows down, but for some people. It grows side to side. The patch directly under your jaw often grows up to meet the jawline or side to side. Pull each strip according to the hair direction you find.

  1. 01
    Re-map the under-jaw before waxingStand in good light and tilt your chin up to expose the under-jaw. Run a fingertip up and down across this strip. If smoothness is up, the hair grows up. If smoothness is down, it grows down. It can also be left to right.
  2. 02
    Apply the under-jaw strip firstSpread a thin horizontal strip directly under the jaw line, applying down (against the upward growth in most cases). Build the lip toward the chin.
  3. 03
    Pull down, fast and parallelStretch the skin upward toward your jaw. Lift the lip at the chin end of the strip and pull straight down toward your collarbone. This is the pull most people get wrong on first try.
  4. 04
    Apply the main neck strips, left then rightNow move down to the main neck. Hair here grows down, so apply your strip up, from collarbone toward jaw. Two strips, one per side, never one big strip across the whole throat. If hair grows left to right, apply strip horizontally.
  5. 05
    Pull up towards the jawStretch the skin down with your free hand. Lift the lip at the jaw end of the strip and pull up in one motion. The neck has loose skin, so the stretch hand matters more here than anywhere else.
  6. 06
    Cool then assessWait two full minutes before you decide whether to do another pass. Neck redness peaks at minute three, not minute one. What looks like a bad outcome at sixty seconds is often perfectly fine at three.
07 Page Seven Six Things To NOT Do Filed: Cautionary

The six don'ts.

We have our lifted skin so you don't have to. Every mistake below is one we actually made and what fixed it.

01

Don't wax over a fresh, active breakout

Whitehead pustules and inflamed papules will lift along with the wax. Treat the breakout first, then wax in a different session. Fix: wait 48 hours after the breakout has flattened.

02

Don't pull straight up

This is the single most common error. Lifting the wax perpendicular to the skin pulls skin, not hair, and is the fastest way to bruise. Fix: always pull parallel to the skin, like you are skimming a frisbee off a table.

03

Don't re-wax the same patch multiple times in one session

With Crybaby Wax, we recommend no more than 2 passes. Fix: if you missed hairs after 2 passes, tweeze them. Re-waxing is a next-session move.

04

Don't wax 24 hours before sun exposure

Freshly waxed PCOS-prone skin is at high risk for post-inflammatory pigmentation. UV makes it worse for weeks. Fix: wax in the evening, stay indoors the next morning, SPF 50 minimum for three days after.

05

Don't wax during the first 3 days of your cycle

Pain perception is highest in those days. Skin is also more reactive. Fix: aim for days 7 to 14 of your cycle for the most tolerable session. Note this on your phone for the next 12 months and never wonder again.

06

Don't trust hot wax that smells different

If the wax smells acrid, burnt, or sharp, it has been over-heated. The chemistry is no longer the same. Fix: let the pot cool, scrape the burnt edge off the rim, and reheat to a honey consistency, not thick toffee.

08 Page Eight The First 72 Hours Filed: Aftercare

After waxing is the most important hour.

PCOS skin is hyper-reactive in the hour after waxing, calmer by hour 12, and fully recovered by hour 72. Here is exactly what to do in each window.

0-10
Min
Cool, soothe, and chill

Directly after waxing, apply a layer of Ride or Cry AHA Exfoliating Splash. This will help prevent ingrown hairs. Then follow with a layer of Just Cool It Calming Gel. Keep your hands away from your face for the rest of this window.

Using the Just Cool It Calming Gel within 10 minutes after waxing shortens redness by half. Skin is processing the lift now.
10-60
Min
No actives, no makeup

Pause retinoids, acids, vitamin C, and benzoyl peroxide for a minimum of 24 hours. Skip foundation for the rest of the day or night. Sleep on a clean pillowcase, ideally silk.

Active ingredients on freshly waxed skin can sting, burn, or pigment-shift.
1-24
Hrs
Hydrate from the inside

Drink water. Avoid sweat-heavy workouts, saunas, hot tubs, and very hot showers. Lukewarm cleanser only. SPF 50 if you go outside.

Heat reopens follicles and sweat carries bacteria. Both can cause folliculitis on freshly waxed skin.
24-48
Hrs
Light exfoliation begins

Reintroduce Ride or Cry AHA Exfoliating Splash or wash the area with a soft washcloth is plenty of exfoliation. Use the Ride or Cry as the first step of your skincare routine.

Prevents ingrowns. These AHAs are gentle enough for post-wax skin while still resurfacing.
48-72
Hrs
Resume normal skincare routine

Retinoids and acids can return tonight, gently. SPF stays critical for the next two weeks. Your skin is now fully through the response curve.

The hyper-pigmentation risk drops dramatically after 72 hours. You're back to baseline.
09 Page Nine The Six Month Schedule Filed: Long Game

Your PCOS strategy for the long term.

PCOS hair never disappears, but consistent waxing trains the follicle to produce thinner, slower-growing hair over time. Here is what to expect mapped from session one of waxing through session six of waxing.

01 02 03 04 05 06 6 Sessions SIX MONTHS · ONE CYCLE The follicle starts to listen
01
Session 1 · Week 0

This will be the densest hair you will ever wax with the highest degree of uncomfortableness, especially if you have been shaving. Expect 15-20 minutes to wax all three zones. Some redness for 24 hours. Welcome to the cycle kickoff.

02
Session 2 · Week 4

Regrowth is roughly the same density, but with a slightly finer texture. Some patches may come back uneven. Wax everything anyway, so the cycle stays synced.

03
Session 3 · Week 8

First visible change. Hair is starting to grow in finer, possibly lighter on the cheeks. Chin density usually unchanged. Keep going.

04
Session 4 · Week 12

You can now stretch to a five-week cycle if the regrowth allows it. Cheek hair is noticeably reduced. Chin and under jaw hair is finer, not fewer.

05
Session 5 · Week 16-17

Sessions should take half the time of session one. Skin tolerates the wax with almost no redness an recovers quickly.

06
Session 6 · Week 20-22

The follicle is trained. Hair is thinner, slower, and sparser. The cycle from here is maintenance, not catch-up. Most clients move to a six-week rhythm.

10 Page Ten What's in The Warmer Filed: Equipment
Why waxing works for PCOS facial hair: Crybaby vegan hard wax pulls coarse hormonal chin and upper-lip hair from the root with less pain than tweezing, threading, or epilating
The recommended wax kit for PCOS Facial Hair

The PCOS Facial Hair Kit

A low-melt hard wax formulated by an esthetician for coarse, hormone-driven facial hair on reactive, PCOS-prone skin. Sets at body-friendly temperature. Pulls only hair, never skin.

  • Formula formulated to be less-painful gentler than standard hard wax
  • Easy-to-use and beginner-friendly
  • Removes coarse PCOS hair without lifting skin
  • Hirsutism-tested and safe across all face zones
  • The same wax used by estheticians
$63
Get the PCOS Kit

Licensed pros buy wholesale at crybabywax.com/pros

Vol. I THE HOW-TO wax guide The PCOS Waxing Manual

No chin hair left behind.

Six steps. Three zones. One follicle at a time. Print this, save it or send it to the friend who has been asking you which wax to buy. We will see you again at week four.

Crybaby Wax, est. 2024 $63 · The PCOS Facial Hair Kit End of Guide